Sunday, August 8, 2010

Ny toa mzungu


(English translation from Kinyarwanda: My name is foreigner)
As I come to the end of my stay in Rwanda I've been reflecting on being a foreigner or mzungu. It's very interesting being judged on your appearance so profoundly. I'm not even what I would term a real "expat" - I walk a lot of places (and people think I'm crazy for doing so), I cook my own food, wash my own underwear and even ride the public transit. I do get rides to places more than most Rwandans and there's a lady (Vestine) who comes into the apartment twice a week to clean floors and such so I guess I'm living an elevated lifestyle to some degree. Anyway, it is interesting, like I said to be judged on appearance. I often forget how it feels when I'm not in Africa. It's a good reminder for me to not make judgements on externalities.

I really have loved living in Rwanda, there's a real positive energy here that I admire and although it can still be very chaotic, it's a lot of fun. I'm going to miss it. Here are some highlights from the last 3 weeks (I had some internet issues my last couple of weeks so I'm now posting this from Boston)

- A trip up to the north west edge of Rwanda to a town called Gisenyi. This meant a 4 hour bus ride one-way so a bit of a trek just for an overnight trip but still fun. We slept in a hostel, ate brochette (Rwandan-style kebabs - yum) and enjoyed Lake Kivu (a huge lake between Rwanda and the DRC)
Biljana and I on the bus

The crew - waiting for Broschettes
Beautiful Lake Kivu
Lake Kivu

I like to call this one:  The ID doc risking schisto (it's a silly personal joke...)

- data-entry for our project - Hurray!! We didn't think the Ministry was going to let us get on it so quickly! It was great to almost finish all the data entry - even though 10 hours a day is exhausting.

-FESPAD - A Multi-country African Dance Festival/Competition that took place at the national stadium.  We ended up being there 2.5 hours early - we were told it started at 3pm, arrived just before 4pm (adjusting for "African time" or so we thought) and got to sit there until the actual start time of 6:30pm. It was great though, neat dancing from numerous countries around Africa (including Madagascar - reminding me of the time when I and some other sister missionaries won a talent show in Madagascar for our attempt at traditional dancing - Prize: 1 live chicken - donated to a needy family in the congregation after all the ladies in the congregation were horrified when we admitted we had no idea how to kill and pluck a chicken - apparently my mother failed in her duty to teach me such skills)  Anyway, here is a video of the champions (the Kenyan drummers) - I apologize for the sad video skills, this is a new thing for me and obviously I need more practice.



- Saying goodbye to all my friends at church (although this was hard, perhaps not a highlight) - I did love attending church in Rwanda, such great people

The brand new church building in Kigali, Rwanda and branch members milling about after church


 -Eating Rwandan food!  (I couldn't go without a comment on the food of course).  No East African meal is really complete without at least 3 starches and preferably more - here we only have two:  Matoke (non-sweet banana - I totally love this stuff) and potato.  For a real feast we ought to have had sweet potato and/or cassava root plus rice and maybe pasta as well.  Here there's chicken and peas with some sauce but normally there would also be beef or goat and beans as well.  Usually there's also sauce with spinach or isombe (ground up cassava leaves).  


And finally, the finishing touch:  Fanta.  (Most prefer orange, I do not - I prefer "citron").



Close Encounters of the Cockroach Kind


A lowlight (as opposed to a highlight) of living in the tropics - an episode I like to call a close encounter of the cockroach kind: A few days ago, there I was, minding my own business, when I spotted a HUGE cockroach in my bathroom. I must confess, I really don't like them. I've managed to get over my aversion to any vertebrate or spiders or bees/wasps etc. but I still have issues with cockroaches. It's visceral. (It may stem from an experience in Madagascar involving a cupboard in one of our apartments that at first glance had a back wall that moved...enough said)
This cockroach was, no joke, 5 cm long. (U.S. translation = 2 inches) Now, I realize that I am, in fact, 178 cm long, which is considerably larger than this cockroach but remember, 5 cm is long for a roach. This guy/gal had a gimpy leg as well, making him/her pretty slow. Regardless of his/her handicap, I still made a loud sound and Biljana, the other girl living in the apartment, came running. She helped me shove it into a paper sack. We took it outside and our night guard came running to see what the commotion was. He started laughing a fit to kill himself when he found out what the problem was and after getting himself under control he disposed of the bag.

(A bad picture of the cockroach peeking at me from around a bucket)

We thought the excitement over although I did comment (prophetically as it turned out) that cockroaches rarely travel alone. Sure enough, an hour later I was getting into the shower and I went to adjust the shower-head when I noticed ANOTHER 5 cm long cockroach sitting right on the shower-head, wiggling its nasty long antennae at me. I made another loud noise (a loud screaming-type noise if the truth be known) and Biljana came running again. We tried our paper bag exterminator trick again but sadly, THIS cockroach did not have a gimpy leg. She/He/It jumped OUT of the bag and ran somewhere. We screamed really loudly (again) I'm sorry to say.
Unfortunately we never saw where she/he/it went so, consequently, I couldn't shower there and had to bathe in the other bathroom. (Highly pathetic I know, but it just felt icky)